Static Or Dynamic Rope For Glacier Travel

Im not seeing much of a cost savings and all youre getting from a static rope is more physical pain.

Static or dynamic rope for glacier travel. Of dynamic rope and this static line. Together with personal tests this seems to indicate that it is just as possible to hold a fall with such a static rope as with a dynamic one. The first part concerns rope length on the glacier the second part concerns rope type and the third part concerns the diameter of rope one might use. The reason that one might want this is because dynamic ropes stretch and if someone falls into a crevasse while tied to a dynamic rope the stretch.

Some specifically advertise that their glacier ropes are dry treated some don t must static lines including cord don t specify but seem to hold much less water than a dynamic rope. As dyneema ropes are about half the weight and much less volume than a typical half rope and as an extra do not hold water this is in my opinion the ideal rope for glacier mountaineering. Several tests in the field prove that a lightweight static rope can. I ve seen glacier ropes at gear.

Nearly any rope static or dynamic is acceptable for holding a fall in glacier travel. It actually has about 1 3 the stretch of a dynamic rope so don t get the idea you re tied into a steel cable. Keep in mind that so called static rope is more accurately called semi static. Line for glacier travel is pretty damn cheap.

In recent years there has been a push to use semi static ropes on glaciers. This particular question is a moving target and has three distinct parts. A dynamic rope will lessen the impact on the person holding a crevasse fall which is very important and outweigh the disadvantages of some rope. You may be surprised at the difference between 20 30 m.

I d be afraid of snatching my partner off his feet and dragging him along before he could get an axe in. Would 40m 60m of 7mm cordalette material be appropriate for glacier travel. Plenty of companies are producing purpose made static rope for glacier travel down to 6mm see petzl rad line et al. You can biuy a 30m 8mm dynamic rope for around 60.

But to each his. Glacier travel with a partner and arresting a crevasse fall using the rad system to stop a crevasse fall when traveling on a glacier always making sure to keep the rope as tight as possible people most often use a small diameter dynamic rope.